VQA has a good showing this release, with a several good wines from both Niagara and the Okanagan. One winery that is producing some of the best riesling in Niagara is represented too – Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling is a terrific example of the lighter, fresher and yet luxuriously fruity rieslings that Niagara can deliver. There’s also a very good merlot from the Okanagan, a region that does very well with that grape: Sandhill Merlot is a rich and well priced example.
The selection of newly released pinot noir is pretty disappointing. The only one I'd recommend is Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Pinot Noir from reliable Cali producers of more French influenced wines that nevertheless are produced in the warm California climate. It will bring you over the $20 pain point, but that's the way it goes. Similarly, the roses this week are, like this summer so far, pretty ho-hum. However go for the most expensive - a Tavel at $17 - and you'll be happy.
The Roses
Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rose 2008. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rhone Valley, France
This one’s pale for a Tavel, with a more orange/salmon tint, but it’s typical Tavel quality: lovely rich nose of raspberry. Smooth and clean on the palate, which has a bit of lemon and raspberry and a hint of herbal. Good fresh finish. 88 points.
Domaine des Peirecedes le Fil D'Ariane 2008. $15.95
Provence, France
Pale salmon pink colour on this classic blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault. Fresh nose with a bit of a herbaceous edge as well as a darker spicy note under the raspberry fruit. Smooth and rather serious on the palate, but it's light and fresh. Nice berry finish. 87 points.
The Whites
Henry of Pelham Pinot Blanc 2008. $14.95
VQA Niagara
Very aromatic nose with a perfume note, some peach, citrus and a bit of mineral. Fresh acidity on palate, which is quite fruity, with peach and melon, though there is a bit of an undertone. Good finish. 86 points
Angels Gate Old Vines Chardonnay 2006. $23.95
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara
Oaky and minerally nose with ripe melon and apple as well as lemon on the palate, which is nice and fresh with more lemon, smoke and a bit of butter and wood. 88 points.
Coyote’s Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Gris 2007. $17.95
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara
Lovely, clean aromatic nose with mineral notes, melon, guava and lemon. Fuller than expected on the palate, which has ripe white fruit, verging on overripe, but with tropical notes too. Nice finish. 87 points
Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2008. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara
Fresh and lightly aromatic nose of sweet lime and a bit of floral. Super fresh and zesty on the palate, which is light clean and even “fun”. Flavours include lemonade and those first tart mac apples of September. There’s a slight sweet hint, but nothing cloying. 89/90 points
J. Lohr Bay Mist Riesling 2007. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Monterrey, California
Great nose – light, fresh and aromatic. With key lime and ripe melon. Quite full and off dry on the palate, which has more lemon-lime and tropical notes and a lovely finish. This is a very New World and ripe approach to riesling. 87/88 points.
Schloss Schonborn Riesling Kabinett 2007. $18.95
Kremstal, Austria
Back to the Old World - here's a fresh riesling with a surprisingly muted nose of pink grapefruit and mineral notes. Fuller bodied than expected on the palate, which is nice, and which has very ripe white fruit, lemon, lime and even some baked apple. No petrol notes however, which is slightly disappointing, but it's a good fresh and fruity riesling. 87 points.
Miguel Torres Vina Esmeralda 2008. $12.95
Catalonia, Spain
This is a blend of moscatel and gewurztraminer - sounds like the kind of sweet hell that might send you running, but don't. There's a nicely aromatic nose with plenty of floral notes, cooked pear and a hint of sweetness. But it's very fresh on the palate, which has tamer white fruit and, though there's some definite sweetness, it's nicely balanced by the acidity. Good fresh finish. 87 points.
D’Arenberg The Money Spider Roussanne 2007. $19.95
McLaren Vale, South Australia
Lovely rich ripe and fruity nose on this very New World take on a classic Rhone white variety. There’s apple compote, honey maybe even some bananas. The palate is quite full, and less fruity than expected and even includes notes of brine and spice. Fresh finish. 88 points.
Peter Lehman Clancy’s Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2008. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Barossa Valley and Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Fairly muted nose with a nice amount of grassiness and hints of ripe white fruit under – including apple and pineapple. Fresh and dry on the palate, which is not overly fruity and fairly full. Even a spicy/salty note, but the fruit comes on the finish. 88 points.
Manoir Grignon Viognier 2008. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Languedoc, France
Great aromatic nose with ripe melon, floral and perfume. Fresh and crisp on the palate, which is dry and medium bodied, with citrus rind and yellow plum. Good finish. 87 points.
E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007. $17.95. ** GOOD VALUE **
Rhone Valley, France
Lovely fruity nose with a complex swirl of aromas – floral, peach and spice. It’s dry, smooth and full on the palate. Fresh acidity, citrus and mineral notes – not too much fruit, nice finish. 89 points
The Reds
Clochemerle Beaujolaois-Villages 2007. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rhone Valley, France
Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2005. $19.95
Columbia Valley, Washington
Big New World nose of ripe plum, smoke and tobacco. Full bodied on the palate, with lots of ripe plum fruit balanced by good tannins. A nice big New World style merlot with fruit and some smoke on the finish. 88 points.
Chianti Montalbano. $14.95
Tuscany, Italy
Very pale colour sets the tone for this light and decent Chianti. Lots of red berry fruit on the nose. Smooth on the palate, which has moderate tannins and sour cherry fruit notes. 87 points.
Castellani Chianti Riserva 2004. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Tuscany, Italy
Great fruity nose of cherries with a bit of a herbal note, dried flowers and even an aged note of leather. Juicy ripe cherry fruit on the palate. Tannins are elevated but smooth and good acidity keeps it fresh. 87/88 points.
Cantalici Chianti Classico 2004. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Tuscany, Italy
If you want to step it up, for a few dollars more this one has a bold and fairly fruity nose of cherry with lots of secondary notes of herbal, spice and tobacco. The palate is smooth and medium bodied with ripe cherry fruit but also very Italian sour cherry note. 88/89 points
Babich Black Label Sauvignon Blanc 2008. $17.95
Marlborough, New Zealand
Very herbaceous nose with a little passion fruit under. Fresh and lively palate with lemon, papaya and some fresh cut grass. Good finish. 88 points.
Grant Burge Barossa Vines Shiraz 2006. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Barossa, South Australia
Very ripe nose of dark plum, blackberry, tar and spice. Big and full on the palate, the robust tannins and good acidity balances the ripe berry fruit. There are also tobacco and charcoal notes with the ripe berry fruit coming back and the finish. 89 points.
Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Pinot Noir 2006. $24.95
Sonoma, California
Dark nose of ripe plum and cherry fruit, almost overripe. There are some tobacco notes as well. It’s smooth, fresh and clean on the palate, with good acidity and tobacco notes. It’s less fruity than expected on the palate, but the cherry notes are there. There is a hint of earth and a good finish. 88 points.
Robert Hall Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. $29.95
Paso Robles, California
Good dark nose with dark cherry, blackberry, a green note and a hint of iodine and some woodsmoke. Smooth and fresh on the medium bodied palate. There’s good cherry fruit and sweet blackberry. Tannins are elevated and acidity is medium. Pleasantly fresh finish. 89 points.
Sandhill Merlot 2006. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Merlot is the most common variety planted the Okanagan, and here’s a good indication of why: it does well. BC wines are not cheap, so the under-$20 price tag means this is reasonable. Ripe nose of dark plum with tobacco and woody notes as well as an undercurrent of fresh herbs and some earth. Smooth and rich on the palate, which has cherries, plum, milk chocolate, tobacco and acidity. Good finish. 88 points.
Aresti Reserva Merlot 2006. $12.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Curico Valley, Chile
The nose is rather reserved, with dark red plum and berry fruit and a spicy note. It’s very fresh on the palate, which has moderate tannins and acidity. Ripe fruit and some darker notes give it a more serious feel. Nice at the price. 86/87 points.
Chateau de Nages Reserve 2007. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rhone Valley, France
Big and bold nose of dark red fruit including black cherry and ripe plum. Darker notes of tobacco and burnt wood are underneath. Tannins and acidity are both high and there's lots of ripe berry and cherry fruit on the palate. Good finish. 88 points.
Chateau d’Aiguilhe 2005. $48.00 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Bordeaux, France
2005 is being trumpeted as one of the best years ever and here is a fantastic and (in Bordeaux terms) reasonably priced example from the Right Bank's Cotes de Castillon. In very general terms, wines from the Right Bank, which includes St. Emilion, are likely to be a little fruitier than Left Bank ones, especially the austere Pauillac (see next wine...). The bulk of the Right Bank appellations are not actually on the Garonne, but on the Dordogne, which joins the Garonne just above the city of Bordeaux. Anyway, this terrific Bordeaux has very little in the way of aged notes yet it’s approachable now. Rich bold nose of charcoal, blackberries, tobacco, a bit of leather and a green note from the cab franc. On the palate it’s very dry and tannic, but with super ripe blackberry, cherry and plum fruit as well as iodine and coffee. This is good now, but will get better over the next few years as it ages. Fantastic. 93 points.
Chateau Grand-Puy Ducasse 2005. $52.00
Bordeaux, France
From the more austere Pauillac appellation on the Left Bank, here's a very rich offering from this producer who squeaked into the 1855 classification as a "5th Growth". The nose is less fruity and has secondary notes including iodine. On the palate there is black cherry and berry fruit, but on lighter side. Tannins and acidity are still very elevated. While not quite as impressive as the previous one, this is another fine Bordeaux at a good price. 90 points.
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