Argentina is considered a "mature" wine market and wine consumption there has been falling for years. But both the quality and volume of the wine it exports is rising in leaps and bounds. With double-digit sales increases to both the United States and Canada last year and healthy sales in the UK (their top three markets), Argentinian producers did well in 2008. There's been a bit of a stumble this year, but oddly enough it's the ultra cheap bulk and "must" (the liquid created post-crush, pre-fermentation that can be transported elsewhere to be made into wine) that has declined the most, according to WineSur, a website devoted to Argentine wines. Russia is majorly down this year (like 70+ percent), and Switzerland has started throwing some serious francs at Argentina's pricier stuff, but the top three markets account for more than half of all exports.
Malbec is Argentina's signature grape and I have to say that even over the last 3 or 4 years that I've been tasting it regularly, the average quality level has noticeably improved: I used to brace myself for "rough" or "rustic" styles that were at least cheap and then be surprised by occasional slick smoothies - now it's the reverse.
Malbec is originally from southwestern France (or perhaps a bit further north) and is still grown there. It's a minor component in today's Bordeaux blend, and meritage blends here and in the States use small amounts too. The Bordelais don't use much of it anymore because they have trouble ripening it every year, but it's still the main ingredient in southwestern France heavyweight Cahors AC.
One key reason it has done so well in the land of the gauchos is the near perfect climate in Mendoza, Argentina's main winegrowing area. The province is a semi-desert, which means no fungus and fewer diseases. Additionally, like parts of California, hot summer days (up to 40C) are followed by cool summer nights (10C). Temperatures drop to single digits in the winter, giving the vines essential "rest" time, but frost is rare. Add the great increase in winery investment in Argentina over the last decade or so, as well as increasing international links and expertise input, and it's no wonder Argentinian malbec is on a roll.
This release offers a great opportunity to try a number of different malbecs - and I was particularly delighted that one of my highest scoring ones was also the cheapest: at just $12.95, you can't go wrong with Michel Torino Estate Don David Reserve Malbec 2007. The selection is otherwise not particularly cheap, but there are a couple more decent ones in the $15 or so range.
Perhaps the Vintages team somehow divined weeks ago, when they planned this release, that summer would get off to such a tentative, halting start - there's not much in the way of whites and few roses, only one of which I'd recommend: Mas Amiel Le Plaisir Rose 2008. I don't think it has anything to do with Conrad Black's wife, but who knows?
There's an interesting crop of reds from Bordeaux as well, unfortunately none of them are under $30...
To get a hold of any of these wines, visit the LCBO website to check availability near you.
Top Value Pick
Don David Malbec Reserve 2007. $12.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Mendoza, Argentina
Very dark ruby colour. Nicely fruity nose with ripe cherries and darker tobacco/woody notes. Smooth and full on the palate, which has lots of ripe cherry and blackberry fruit. Tannins are firm and acidity a little more than medium. There is a hint of sweetness in the fruit and then a lovely long finish of cherry and plum. Incredible value. 88 points.
The Argentine Malbecs
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2008 $14.95
Mendoza
Fresh and simple nose with very ripe berry fruit and notes of raspberry pop tart. Smooth, fresh and medium bodied on the palate. Acidity and tannins are both medium, so it's pretty easy drinking. Nice finish with raspberry. 87 points
Andean Vineyards Malbec 2007. $15.95
Mendoza
Very dark and bold nose with cigar box over dark berry/cherry fruit. Smooth on the palate with the cherry fruit a little more muted than expected, though it certainly is ripe. Acidity and tannins are both elevated and the balance is good. Good finish too. 87 points.
Chakana Malbec 2008. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Mendoza
Fairly dark nose with hints of earthiness over ripe fresh berry fruit. Acidity and tannins are medium and there is a slight sweet note on the fruit, but the darkness on the nose gives it some seriousness. Good finish. 87/88
Dominio Del Plata Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2007. $27.95
Mendoza
Big dark nose with chocolate, spice and fresh berry fruit. Fresh and lovely on the palate. Acidity and tannins are both high and there's great raspberry and cherry fruit and a hint of chocolate. Lovely finish. 89 points.
Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2006. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Mendoza
This is the posher offering of Kaiken, whose $14.95 entry level offering impressed me earlier this year. Verdict: well worth the extra five bucks. Lovely nose - not too big, with good red berry fruit and some pipe tobacco. Nicely fresh and lively on the big palate. Very ripe cherry/berry fruit and moderate hints of tobacco. Fresh finish. 89 points.
Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2006. $15.95
Mendoza
Fairly dark nose dominated by earthy notes and chocolate. Smooth on the palate, with acidity and tannins about medium. It lightens up on the palate, which is fresh, smooth and dominated by cherry fruit. Fresh finish. 87 points.
Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec 2006. $24.95
Mendoza
Big rich nose with dark fruit and as well as chocolate and coffee. Bit of a sour note on the palate. Acid and tannins both elevated and there's a seam of milk chocolate as well as tobacco ending with a smooth finish of ripe red fruit. 88 points.
The Sparkling Wines
Louis Picamelot Brut Rose Cremant de Bourgogne. $19.95
Burgundy, France
Deeper pink colour with a fresh, fruity nose of muted ripe strawberries, some lemon and a bit of brioche. Fresh and zesty on the palate, which has a gentle mousse and is less fruity than expected based on the nose. OK finish. 87 points
Castillo Perelada Reserva Brut Cava. $17.95
Catalonia, Spain
Lovely rich and honeyed nose with apple fruit. Dry and fresh on the palate, which has a modest mousse. There's more apple fruit and a slightly sweet note on the finish. Nice. 88 points.
The White Wines
Stags' Leap Winery Chardonnay 2007. $29.95
Napa, California
Fresh nose with oaky notes over apple fruit. Quite big and sharp on the palate, with smoky notes, austere acidity and more apple, as well as mineral notes. Oak treatment aside, this could be a fuller bodied Chablis... 89 points.
Cockfighter's Ghost Verdelho 2007. $18.95
Hunter Vally, New South Wales
Another crazy Aussie name and a big New World take on an Iberian grape. Verdelho is from Portugal and, when I detected grassy notes, I assumed it must be related to verdejo, which is the main grape used in Rueda, which I consider to be Spain's answer to sauvignon blanc. But they're not related according to Jancis Robinson in her Oxford Companion to Wine. She says, of verdejo, "although the vine looks quite similar to the verdelho of Madiera and the Azores, their DNAs are distinct." Oh well. Anyway, there's a big and fruity nose with some grassy undertone and notes of pineapple and melon fruit. Rich and full on the palate, there's lots more fruit, including ripe cantaloup, some more grassiness and an OK finish. 87/88 points
Sandalford Element Classic White 2008. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Western Australia
This is a blend of verdelho, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc and riesling... I found the sauv blanc characteristics most dominant on the nose - with lots of grassy and lemon notes. Nicely fruity on the palate, more on the tropical side. Lemon drops as well. The acidity could be crisper, but it's nice for the price. 87 points.
La Chablisienne Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2007. $15.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Burgundy, France
Well here's a surprise, a sauvignon blanc from the heart of chardonnayland. In Burgundy, only the Saint-Bris appellation produces sauvignon blanc. At any rate, these guys do a great job: fairly expressive nose with darker herbaceous notes over rich tropical fruit. Super sharp and lemony on the palate, which is clean, fresh, lightly fruity and leads to a refreshing finish. 88/89 points.
Nadine Ferrand Macon Blanc 2007. $18.95
Burgundy, France
Nice nose with a caramel/vanilla note and a mineral undertone. Super fresh and slightly lemony on the palate, which has more vanilla, more minerality and nicely muted white fruit. Very smooth. 88 points.
Domaine de la Grange Vieilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2007. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Loire Valley, France
Super fresh and minerally nose with virtually no fruit. Fresh and clean on the palate, which is fuller than expected, though there is a sharp note. Sleek and minerally initially, some fruity notes emerge - peach and green apple. Good finish. 88 points.
Domaine de Pellehaut Blance 2008. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Cotes de Gascogne, France
Another major blend of six grapes, with chardonnay the main ingredient. However the sauv blanc once again takes over the nose with its grassy notes. There are also green grape and citrus notes. It's smooth, fresh and fruity on the palate, with good acidity, good fresh fruit and a nice finish. 87 points.
Trere Albana 2007. $15.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Quite tart nose with muted fruit, including fresh pear. Albana is an Italian grape planted mainly in north-central region of Emilia-Romagna. Bigger and fruitier than expected on the palate, which has great acidity, a little citrus and a creme fraiche note. Great finish too. 88 points.
Attems Pinot Grigio 2008. $19.95
Friuli, Italy
Here's a darker take on Italy's light, fresh "tastes like nothing" white. The nose has a definite dark side and the fruit notes are rich, more tropical. On the palate it's very dry and fresh, with good acidity, tropical fruit plus some apple and a sharp lemon note to keep it lively. Decent finish. The 2007 vintage of this made it into Wine Spectator's Top 100 wines... 88 points.
The Red Wines
Hidden Bench Terroir Cache Meritage 2006. $35.20 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
VQA Beamsville Bench
Very rich nose of blackberries, wood and spicy notes - very much a dark nose with the oak evident. It's smooth and elegant on the palate, which is medium bodied and there's a bright quality it to the red berry and plum fruit. The oak is not too strong on the palate, and there's a tobacco note on the lingering finish. This is among the best big reds I've ever had from Ontario. 90 points.
Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $39.95
Sonoma, California
Pronounced like the Levi's rather than the Rt. Hon. Mr. Cretien, these producers have been on top of the heap in Sonoma for years. I think of it as a bit of Bordeaux in Sonoma. So: big. Expect a lovely nose of plum, woody notes and a bit of herbal - a complex swirl. Full and more New World on the palate, but a hint of Bordeaux style sourness to some of the fruit. Very dry, not overly fruity, but the red berry and plum fruit that is there is ripe. Great finish. 90 points.
Clayhouse Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Paso Robles, California
Lovely nose - not too big - with ripe cherry and prune plum fruit as well as a bit of cedar. Smooth on the palate, with acidity and tannins medium. Fresh and not OTT fruit levels. More cherries and a bit of tobacco and herb. Good finish. 88 points.
Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. $19.95
Maipo Valley, Chile
Ripe nose of dark berry fruit along with herbal and a hint of a green note. Smooth, fresh and ripe on the palate, which is full of cherry and dark berry fruit. There's also some cedar and a hint of mint. Nice. 88 points.
Bordeaux
2005 has been hailed as one of the greatest Bordeaux vintages of all time and initial results are certainly promising. More of them are being released now, but it's still probably best to cellar the pricier ones for at least another couple of years (ideally longer). The key observation is that there's lots of concentrated fruit in this vintage, something that doesn't happen every year in vintage-variable Bordeaux. There are some real powerhouses, but also some of the more reserved, more muted style too. There's one 2004 this release, and it's a real winner.
Chateau Fougas Maldoror 2005. $39
There's a great, bold nose of cigar and coffee beans over ripe berry fruit. Big and full on the palate, the acidity and tannins are both high and there's lots of ripe blackberry fruit, which carries through to and dominates the lingering finish. This is not ready yet but promises to be excellent in a few years. 89 points.
Chateau Gigault Cuvee Viva 2005. $30
Bold nose with lots of red fruit, tobacco and earthy notes. Acidity and tannins are both high and it's fairly smooth on the palate. The fruit is ripe but muted and there is a slight sour note as well as some spice. OK finish. 87 points.
Chateau Faizeau Vieilles Vignes 2005. $30
Rich nose with ripe and slightly cooked red fruit as well as some menthol and an earthy note. Tannins and acidity both high, yet it's already smooth on the palate, which has very ripe fruit and a cigar box note. This one's not ready yet, but will certainly improve. 88 points.
Duluc du Branaire-Ducru 2005. $59
More muted but still fruity nose of cherry and blackberry. Very smooth on the palate. The acidity and tannins are either medium or extremely well balanced. Not overly fruity on the palate, which has tobacco notes as well, and there's a great finish of ripe plum. 89 points.
Chateau Franc-Mayne 2005. $59
Somewhat extracted nose of ripe dark berry fruit, with woody and earthy notes under. Rich and full on the palate, which has an intriguing chocolate note, is very smooth and has great berry fruit. 89 points.
Chateau du Taillan 2005. $34.95
Muted nose that has a slightly sour note, though it opens up to reveal dark berry and plum fruit. Muted on the palate, which has high tannins and acidity and is in general on the darker side. 87 points.
Chateau Beaumont 2005. $25
Lovely nose of dark cherry/berry fruit, cigar and a hint of chocolate. The ripe cherry and cassis fruit is somewhat muted on the palate, which has elevated tannins and acidity. The fruit comes nicely to the fore on the finish. 88 points.
Segla 2004. $58.95
Dark cherry and tobacco as well as a slightly sour note on the nose. Super smooth and ripe on the palate, which has nicely muted fruit with more tobacco. The fruit is on the lighter side, with blackberry and plum flavours. Lovely finish, very elegant. 91 points.
Pierre Sourdais Tradition Chinon 2005. $20.95
Loire Valley, France
From the home of cabernet franc, here's a nice ripe version: great fresh red berry fruit with fresh green notes plus some herbal. Smooth and medium bodied on the palate, acidity and tannins are still high. There's quite a juicy feel to the raspberry and blackberry fruit and a good finish. 88 points.
Fontodi Chianti Classico 2006. $28.95
Tuscany, Italy
Big ripe nose with lots of cherry, red berry and some floral notes. Acidity and tannis both elevated on the fairly smooth palate, which has a sour cherry note in the middle. Beautiful lingering finish. 89 points.
Rose
Mas Amiel Le Plaisir Rose 2008. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Languedoc, France
Summer fun from the sunny southwestern side of Mediterranean France. The very pink colour suggests bold and brassy, but it's quite muted on the nose. But the big is on the palate, which is fresh and packed with berry and sour cherry fruit and very crisp acidity, all nicely balanced and not OTT. Great lingering finish with a raspberry/strawberry note. 88/89 points
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