
Men like to show off and buying champagne is a tasty way to do so. But women and wimps can slap down cash too, so real men sabre their champagne.
The tradition dates back to the Napoleonic era, when the French hussars, (i.e., cavalry), would celebrate battlefield victories by slicing the tops of champagne bottles off with their swords. The race car drivers of their day, only they wasted less of the precious wine...
Today there are specially made "champagne sabres" in luxurious boxes available to those who want to get in touch with their inner hussar without the bloody battle part, but the appeal of the sabre remains limited. Here's a Swedish guy to show you how it's done. In Toronto, tough guy chef Marc Thuet has done it.
Anyway, whether you sabre or just uncork the usual way, there are a whole lot of champagnes in this release, including some good deals. There are other wines too of course, so scroll down for the whites and reds.
The Champagnes
Montaudon Brut. $39.95 ** BEST VALUE**
Champagne, France
Rich clean nose with mineral notes, as well as honey and toast. Very smooth and rich on the palate, which has apricot fruit, tiny bubbles and a great fresh finish. This is very well priced. 90 points.
Chapuy Brut Carte Noir Tradition. $37.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Champagne, France
Rich but slightly odd nose of fruit peelings - i.e., maybe a little old? Nice surprise on the palate though: moderate bubbles, good acidity, nicely balanced fruit, honey and citrus notes, and a nice finish. 88 points
Ayala Demi-Sec Rich Majeur. $53.95
Champagne, France
Super fresh and even fruity nose with some apricot. Very smooth and indeed "rich" on the palate, which has a definite sweetness. However this is leavened by some nice lemon peel notes and there's some honey on the nice finish. 89 points.
Beamont Eds Crayeres Brut Grand Rosé. $48.95
Champagne, France
Slighly garish colour - more pink than salmon. Rich and lovely nose with some red fruit on it over nice honeyed toast notes. Fresh and clean on the palate with surprising cherry notes - must be the notoriously fruity pinot meunier, which represents 40% of this blend. Elegant dry finish that lingers. 89/90 points.
Cattier Chigny-les-Roses Brut Premier Cru. $19.95 (375 ml)
Champagne, France
Clean, fresh and lively nose with nutty and sweet notes. Smooth, and the modest bubbles on the palate make this feel gentle. Richer fruit flavours, including honey and citrus. Could be a little livelier and crisper, but nice nutty finish. 88 points.
Fleury & Fils Brut Carte Rouge Organic. $56.95
Champagne, France
Rich fresh nose with brioche notes. Lively burst of tiny bubbles on the palate, which clear to reveal great smooth white fruit under nice citrus notes. Some nuttiness, great lingering finish. Lovely. 91 points.
Gardet Cuvée Foudres Selected Reserve. $44.95
Champagne, France
Rich bready nose with just a hint of white fruit. Very smooth on the palate, which has an initial burst of bubbles that calm quickly. Nice lingering finish of bread and fruit. 89 points.
Laurent-Perrier Brut Cuvée Rosé. $99.95
Champagne, France
Super rich and lovely nose with red berry fruit, honey and toast. Clean, fresh and surprisingly light on the palate. Great lemon notes, some minerality, very elegant small bubbles. Great lingering finish with chalk: this is the real deal, and pink too. 93 points.
Louis Roederer Brut Premier. $67.95
Champagne, France
Muted nose with darker nutty notes on this "classic benchmark champagne" as Vintages calls it. Quite rightly a Vintages Essential, this one is super smooth on the palate. There are tiny bubbles and it's crisp, dry and fresh. Some lemon and apple fruit. Great finish that just lingers. 92 points
Marguet Pere & Fils Blanc de Noirs de Cuvée Tradition. $42.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Champagne, France
Rich nose with peach notes and a bit of age development evident in the darker, earthier nature of the fruit. Great fresh lemon and apple fruit on the palate, however, liven things up. Nice gentle finish, interesting champagne. 89 points.
R & L Legras Brut Blanc de Blancs. $46.95
Champagne, France
Fresh clean light nose, but with a richness under. Tiny bubbles. This is a terrific champagne in the drier, more tart style. Crisp acidity, good minerality, unripe apple fruit. Zingy. 90 points.
Veuve Clicquot Vintage Reserve Brut. $92.95
Champagne, France
Bold nose with some vintage notes starting to show - wet leaves under rich white fruit. Super smooth, dry and fresh on the palate, which is very youthful. Some minerality, citrus notes and nougat. Lovely long finish, nicely complex. The widow delivers as usual. 93 points.
Here's a mini travelogue on Champagne including tasting notes from some of the top houses.
Another Sparkler...
Pierre Sparr Cremant D'Alsace Brut 2004. $19.95
Alsace, France
Rich nose of darker white fruit. some toast. Farily full on the palate, nice bubbles and a hint of sweetness. Nice lemon/lime notes and an OK finish. 87/88 points.
The Whites
Fielding Estaes Fireside Series Chardonnay 2005. $20.95
VQA Niagara - Beamsville Bench
Very oaky nose of wood and smoke. Slight sweetness on the palate, which has decent body but isn't overly fruity, but there's lots more oak, vanilla and smoke. Very oaky, but nice. 87 points.
Liberty School Chardonnay 2005. $18.95
Central Coast, California
Brilliant yellow gold colour. Muted nose with oaky notes. A bit round on the palate and there's a sweet hint of buttersotch and vanilla. A real "Coca Cola Palate" Cali chard here, but OK for all that. 87 points.
La Playa Block Selection Reserve Chardonnay 2007. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Limari Valley, Chile
Want a super fuity chard that's not musqué (a variant clone)? Here's one with a rich fruity nose - white and tropical fruit - and a big explosion on the palate. Medium acidity, more ripe tropical fruit, pineapple and citrus. OK finish. Not a typical chardonnay, and well made too. 88 points.
Domaine de la Croix Senaillet Saint-Véran 2005. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Burgundy, France
Pleasantly muted nose with slight vanilla hint. Lovely fresh light lemon on the palate, which also has a vague hint of vanilla and butter. Great finish on this terrific lightly oaked chardonnay from the home of chardonnay. Great price too. 89 points.
Marco Bonfante Gavi Rason 2007. $15.95
Piedmont, Italy
Pleasant nose, but very muted. Clean and fresh on the palate, the acidity is crisp and there are nice lemon and plum notes. Long elegant finish that stays fresh. 88 points.
Quinta do Ameal Louriero Vinho Verde 2006. $15.95
Ponte de Lima, Portugal
Alluring nose of fresh lemon candy. Light and delicate on the palate. The acidity is about medium and could be highter, but there's great citrus fruit on this EZ drinking white. 87 points.
Jeruzalem Ormoz Pinot Gris 2006. $13.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK **
Slovenia
Not the first place you'd look for a pinot gris, but what a pleasant Slovenian surprise. Rich nose with lots of aromatic notes. Smooth and nicely full on the palate. Acidity is good and there are nice plum and floral notes. Nice finish too - if the waiter told you it was from Alsace and cost 50% more, you wouldn't disbelieve. 88 points.
The Reds
Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. $24.95
Napa/Sonoma, California
California's premier wine counties can sometimes be snootily dismissive of one another: Napa thinks Sonoma's all granola, Sonoma thinks Napa's all flash. Well this peacemaker has decided to blend a cab with about half and half cab from both counties to good effect. Rich bold nose with good secondary notes of spice developing nicely. On the palate, tannins are still high and there's lots of dark red fruit, as well as secondary notes of tobacco, cigar box and vanilla. Nice lingering finish. 88 points.
Atalon Merlot 2003. $39.95
Napa, California
Super smooth Californian here with lots of complexity. Dark plums, cherries, nice line of fruit down the middle. Super smooth and elegant. Very New World, but nicely done. 90 points.
Fess Parker Syrah. $20.95
Santa Barbara, California
Yes indeed, it's that Fess Parker. He was television's Daniel Boone in the 1960s tv show (with re-runs well into the 70s). Fess may not be acting anymore, but he still likes a blockbuster: Super rich and bold nose of dark red fruit, nicely integrated with smoky notes in this very New World syrah. Full blast of fruit on the palate that borders on OTT. Licorice notes add a bit of complexity. Nice finish. 88 points.
Bodega Lurton Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $14.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Mendoza, Argentina
Rich nose of dark red fruit and nice secondary notes of mint and herbal. Rich cherry and even chocolate notes on the palate. Tannins and acidity are medium, so it's pretty easy drinking, but this one would really shine with meat. Nice finish, great price. 88 points.
Gran Lurton Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $20.95
Mendoza, Argentina
Similar profile to its entry level sister: there's a fresh and lively nose of dark fruit and that mint and herbal again. Full and rich on the palate, very nicely integrated fruit and secondary notes, including a bit of tobacco and some more herbal. Nice fresh finish. There's more complexity here. 89 points.
Cono Sur Vision Pinot Noir 2007. $15.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Colchagua Valley, Chile
Great fruity notes of cherry and strawberry on the nose. Fresh and smooth on the palate and not over fruity - muted, but when you look for it, it's there. OK finish on this fairly simple but very very pleasant New World pinot. 88 points.
Vina La Rosa Don Reca Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. $19.95
Cachapoal Valley, Chile
The slightly green nose is not promising, but there's rich bold red fruit on the palate, including blackberry. Tannins and acids are both high and some leafy notes come through on the palate, but actually add to it in a weird way. Nice finish. 88 points.
Chain of Ponds The Ledge Shiraz 2003. $27.95
Adelaide Hills/McLaren Vale, South Australia
Bold and rich nose of very dark red fruit - ripe black cherries - plus peppery notes. Massive on the palate, with both tannins and acids still high, five years on. Slight sour note, more pepper and a nice finish. Enjoy this with a big meaty meal. 88 points.
Chapel Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $20.95
McLaren Vale, South Australia
Bold nose with good complexity - dark red fruit, licorice and a hint of iodine. Smooth, rich and fruity on the palate, with good secondary notes of tobacco and cigar. Tannins and acids both high, full bodied, nice finish with plums. 88 points.
Cockfighter's Ghost Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $23.95
Langhorne Creek, South Australia
Slightly muted nose, but lots of secondary notes under the dark red fruit, including earthy and mineral notes. Smooth and rich on the palate, there's a nice play of flavours, including oak. Good finish. 89 points.
Coriole Redstone Shiraz 2005. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
McLaren Vale, South Australia
Muted nose with not a lot of fruit, but big difference on the palate. Very rich and smooth, with red fruit and secondary notes in nice balance - blackberries, pepper and some chocolate. Nice finish on this Aussie not-fruit-bomb. 89 points.
Kilikanoon Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $34.95
Clare Valley, South Australia
Rich bold nose with lots of dark red fruit, maybe a little over-extracted. Super full bodied, but fresh and smooth on the palate with good secondary notes of earth and some mint. Good lingering finish. 90 points.
St. Hallett Shiraz/Grenache 2006. $14.95
Barossa, South Australia
Super fresh red berry fruit - raspberry and strawberry - you may be tempted to pour it on a sundae. Good tannins and acidity make the palate a little more serious than expected. Not very complex, but nice at the price. 87 points.
Chateau Haut-Colobier 2005. $17.95
Bordeaux (Cotes de Blaye), France
Nicely complex nose in the Bordeaux style: not over fruity, but there is dark red fruit and a hint of iodine. Smooth on the palate, could be fruitier, but hey, this is Bordeaux. Nice tobacco note. OK finish, good price. 88 points.
Chateau les Cabannes 2005. $23.95
Bordeaux (St-Emilion), France
Rich bold nose with lots of secondary notes including some herbal and a hint of iodine. Smooth and very full on the palate - muted raspberry fruit, tobacco, cigar box and more iodine. Not bad at all. 88 points.
Crociani Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2003. $25.95
Tuscany, Italy
Rich and interesting nose with stewed plums that somehow seem very fresh. Darker secondary notes developing under. Smooth and elegant on the palate, with red berry fruit. Acidity and tannins are both high, so this will continue to age and improve. Good finish. 89 points.
Roamos Pinto Duas Quintas 2006. $15.95
Douro, Portugal
Super fruity nose with lots of dark red fruit. Simple, but very fruity on the palate - a rather New World style of wine here. Acidity and tannins medium, so pretty easy-drinking. 87 points.
Marques de Valcarlos Tempranillo/Cabernet Reserva 2000. $16.95 ** TOP VALUE VALUE **
Navarra, Spain
Very rich nose of dark red fruit including black cherries and blackberries, as well as secondary notes including tobacco. Smooth and elegant on the palate, which follows through nicely from the nose - great fruit over tobacco. Tannins and acids are both still high on this seven year old, so it'll still keep. Great finish, great value. 89 points.




